#1 09-12-2012 5:53 pm

eddie j
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animation paper

Do you guys use bond hole punchers or animation paper from offline? I used to use animation paper but ive seen animators use bond hole puncher for regular copy paper. i think that more for a camera stand then for scanner pictures in.

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#2 09-13-2012 10:34 am

wolfor
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Re: animation paper

Hey Eddie!
Most 2D animators I know have only been using copy paper and a hole puncher for that, though they had a 'professional' hole puncher for the standard peg bars, I believe that thing is rather expensive. But come to think of it, animation paper is really expensive, too smile
These drawings have usually been both filmed and scanned.

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#3 09-13-2012 6:16 pm

eddie j
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Re: animation paper

now, ive used copy paper but i've order animation paper that was bigger then my lightbox. And i have to exacto knife the page to get it into the scanner. Its interesting anyway.

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#4 09-16-2012 1:17 pm

dclark
Registered: 08-31-2012
Posts: 17

Re: animation paper

I made my own light table at the beginning of the summer so that it can illuminate a stack of up to 11x17 paper. However, since all I have is a tiny Epson scanner, I use copy paper that is low on the opacity side and just go with that. In the future, I'll probably want to buy a bigger scanner because I sometimes feel that the size of copy is constricting. Yes, you can blow it up on the computer, but my natural flow is getting all messed up, especially since I'm used to huge 18x22 in my life drawing classes.

Bottom line: maybe you should consider building your own. You can buy most of the supplies at Lowes and it will come out very professional looking if you design it that way. I'm very happy with mine personally.


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#5 09-16-2012 6:07 pm

eddie j
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Re: animation paper

This is a video about a long time animator. I would like to do things her way.


Direct Link

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#6 12-10-2012 2:47 am

eddie j
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Re: animation paper

I have Questions about col-erase blue and red pencils. I've learned them in school i didn't believe it.
What's the magic about?

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#7 12-10-2012 1:51 pm

RyanHagen
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Re: animation paper

Well you can get non-photo blue pencils, doesn't have to be col-erase.  They were used in the olden days:D  I know people still use them though.  Essentially they weren't picked up by stat cams, so you could animate loosely with the non-photo blue pencil and then ink/clean up later.  Some people just like drawing with col erase pencils, but they don't infact erase all that well in my opinion.


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#8 12-21-2012 4:31 pm

robcat2075
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Re: animation paper

RyanHagen wrote:

Some people just like drawing with col erase pencils, but they don't infact erase all that well in my opinion.

All COL and no ERASE!

I always wondered why someone couldn't make a colored pencil that erased better.

I was in a toy store a while back and saw Crayola had a line of colored pencils that they claimed erased just like regular pencils, but I haven't tried them.


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#9 01-05-2013 10:39 pm

Pb-practicebowling
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Re: animation paper

There are other way to work cheaply. Professionally blue and red col-erase pencils does a job in a way that some programs may or might mimic, About the video earlier had in discussion on making art animation table and light boxes.
Wanted to get some more insight about it but was not interesting enough.


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#10 05-09-2013 3:56 am

eddie j
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Re: animation paper

DO you guy actual keep your hard copies a work wirth them later on in coolloorr. LOL Just want to ask?

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#11 05-21-2013 11:17 pm

pollywoggles
From: Los Angeles
Registered: 06-24-2012
Posts: 89

Re: animation paper

I use a 1/4" 3-hole round pegbar, because the Acme pegbar requires a very expensive hole punch: 

http://www.lightfootltd.com/catalog/pegbars

I also had to find a true 1/4" punch (the "usual" punches you'd get at an office supply store is not true 1/4", even though it may say it is.  They are slightly larger, and cause registration jiggle issues.   A punch that makes true 1/4" is very rare.). 

Lightfoot/Cartoon Supplies sells the punches, but they are about as expensive as the Acme punches.  I found cheaper ones here:  http://www.1stopsquare.com/drill.html

Then I just use regular copy paper.

Last edited by pollywoggles (05-21-2013 11:18 pm)


Paul

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#12 05-23-2013 3:59 am

eddie j
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Re: animation paper

WOW.  thank pollywoggle you put up a great point. I would want to talk about that to i have pegbars some of us are clueless about them then some of us don't know where to get the thing to drawing from to make a simple ech  lol.

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#13 03-17-2014 6:45 am

Tarek11111
Registered: 03-17-2014
Posts: 2

Re: animation paper

Hi Eddie/Everybody,

I was wondering if you think there's a difference in quality (and see through effectiveness when placed on the lightbox) between student bond animation paper and regular office copy paper (80gsm)? A university has asked us for student bond animation paper for their studio classes, could I use regular office paper, and buy them the round hole punch, and pegs?

Many thanks

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#14 03-17-2014 2:44 pm

J.K. Riki
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Re: animation paper

Hey Tarek!

As a 2D animator, and one who still prefers working on paper rather than the Cintiq (though it is a lovely device) I can tell you the difference between good animation paper and regular copy paper is night and day. With no exaggeration I mean that it makes 100% all the difference in the world. If you use good paper, you don't even need a light table the vast majority of the time. It's thin enough to see through several levels, plus it holds up to flipping exceptionally well. It is also a slightly creamier color which, you wouldn't consider until you've tested it, is actually much easier on the eyes over long periods of time. (And with 2D animation, it WILL be a long period of time!)

So truthfully, go get the good paper. I recommend Ingram Bond 22lb. Also I'd highly recommend Acme hole punched Ingram Bond (you can order it punched). It isn't worth punching it yourself with a round hole punch. The Acme peg bar is DESIGNED for our purposes. While you could make-shift your way through it, do you want to be an animator or not? If this is the path you've chosen, you owe it to yourself to move every obstacle out of your way and do it right. That means no cutting corners to save a few bucks. This is important, and this is where you should splurge a little. It makes a ridiculous difference.

Now, I keep a stack of white animation paper (not Ingram 22lb) on the side as well in case I need to do some straight ahead run or test that requires no real finesse. I feel less bad about "wasting" paper using the cheaper stuff. Then, once it's moving well, I'll put the Ingram on top and use that for anything that I'll be spending time and energy on.

Hope that helps! If you're still not sold, do yourself at LEAST the favor of buying some of the super good stuff and then also get the crappy, self-punched paper from your printer tray. Compare them. Animate on both for a few weeks. Then you'll see the difference first hand.

eddie j wrote:

I have Questions about col-erase blue and red pencils. I've learned them in school i didn't believe it.
What's the magic about?

Col Erase provide a good line with decent control. You can also get a great range of depth from them, from "barely any line at all" with light pressure to something rich and dark (pending on the color). They also don't smear like graphite pencils, because they are waxier. This is important for animation as the paper will be sliding against each other over and over and over, so col-erase holds your drawings instead of rubbing off.

robcat2075 wrote:

All COL and no ERASE!

I always wondered why someone couldn't make a colored pencil that erased better.

Though they're certainly not perfect (what is?) it's important that the pencils DON'T fully erase. You need to be able to knock down drawings so you can take them through rough stage to finished. If you erased the line entirely, you couldn't do that without laying over a new page of paper (which often loses the life and soul of your original rough). You can, however, work lighter and then it will totally erase, if that's what you want.

Last edited by J.K. Riki (03-17-2014 2:45 pm)


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#15 03-23-2014 8:15 am

Tarek11111
Registered: 03-17-2014
Posts: 2

Re: animation paper

Hello Riki,

Thanks for your detailed reply. The thing is, the university studio requires 10f Student Bond paper, they don't want the higher quality type for now. So I would like to know if there is a substanial difference between Lightfoot's Student Bond animation paper and regular copy paper.

Many thanks
Cheers

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#16 03-23-2014 2:21 pm

robcat2075
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Re: animation paper

Some years ago I did one of those events where you get in groups and you animate a 30 second cartoon in one day.

They had this paper that was so good you didn't need a light table to do your inbetweens but it looked like regular paper, it wasn't thin  onionskin paper.

Later on I bought some professional punched paper from Cartoon Colour figuring it would be just like that but it wasn't, it was just lousy plain paper. I never found out what the good stuff was.


"3D animators have pencil envy" - Robert Holmén
The world's most beloved Heavy Push
This is only a... my gallery of CG tests
I'm a 2D Wannabe...  drawings and 2D animation tests

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#17 03-23-2014 2:23 pm

J.K. Riki
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Re: animation paper

Ah, gotcha. Well first of all, your University is off their rocker and that's total and utter BS. If they wanted to force you to use the good quality paper then I can understand, but forcing you to use lesser paper? No way, that's not an acceptable thing to do. Do they WANT to make it harder on you? That's ridiculous. They should be setting you up to succeed, not fail. (Also you should be using at least 12 field, not 10.)

Second, unfortunately I do not know the difference between those two papers in particular, but if the 10f Student Bond is like the crappier stuff I got back in school (before I learned the expensive stuff was worth every penny) then no, there's not much of a difference. Both are garbage. Don't use either, regardless of what the school is saying. Do what's best for YOU, and that would be using quality materials. If you need someone to argue it for you, give me your teacher's contact info and I'm happy to get them to change their opinion in your case. Because that really fires me up, forcing you to use some inferior paper for reasons unknown. That's bogus.


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#18 03-23-2014 2:25 pm

J.K. Riki
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Re: animation paper

robcat2075 wrote:

Some years ago I did one of those events where you get in groups and you animate a 30 second cartoon in one day.

They had this paper that was so good you didn't need a light table to do your inbetweens but it looked like regular paper, it wasn't thin  onionskin paper.

Later on I bought some professional punched paper from Cartoon Colour figuring it would be just like that but it wasn't, it was just lousy plain paper. I never found out what the good stuff was.

Sounds very much like Ingram Bond 22.

There is also a paper apparently sold in the UK that is not Ingram, but also outstanding, so it could have been that as well.

"Professional" paper sold via a website means little, because any site can call ANYTHING "professional" and get away with it. There are zero regulations, so they very likely tricked you at Cartoon Colour.

http://www.cartoonsupplies.com/content/ … o-500-shts
Here's the Ingram, if you ever want to try it again.


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#19 03-23-2014 2:54 pm

robcat2075
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Re: animation paper

Back in the 90's Cartoon Colour was pretty much IT for animation supplies. 

I suppose it was professional for some purpose but it wasn't adequate for my amateur purposes.


"3D animators have pencil envy" - Robert Holmén
The world's most beloved Heavy Push
This is only a... my gallery of CG tests
I'm a 2D Wannabe...  drawings and 2D animation tests

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#20 10-28-2015 11:19 pm

2dburn3d
Registered: 11-06-2014
Posts: 119

Re: animation paper

What the name of the animation peg hole punch, where can i get one? Maybe online? quick question.

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